Pip Jenkins, Design Director, JOHN SMEDLEY

Pioneer fashion designer brand Feng Chen Wang was founded by designer Wang Fengchen. In his Spring/Summer 2020 collection, Wang Fengchen incorporated the design language of China's endangered traditional handprinted fabric, the blue printed fabric, and adopted the original handmade method, which can be traced back a thousand years. Through innovative ways to achieve the contemporary inheritance of tradition, it injects new life into ancient techniques and presents traditions and values that have gradually been forgotten by the times.

In the 2020 Autumn and Winter series, Wang Fengchen discussed pure Chinese natural dyes with craftsmen and traditional Chinese medicine practitioners who master precious skills, and incorporated them into the design. Using natural pigments extracted from medicinal plants instead of chemical dyes to dye clothing, while presenting a unique futuristic design aesthetic, also demonstrates the concept of environmental protection and sustainability in fashion.

Recently, UMA WANG joined hands with The Woolmark Company to bring the traceable Merino Wool 2021/22 Autumn/Winter Capsule series. Uma Wang named "Victoria" (female sheep) and "Yendon" (male sheep) for the two knitting series of this collaboration, which are the names of two Merino sheep from the Lal Lal Ranch in Australia.

The wool fibers used in this series are all from Merino sheep in Australia. The use of Merino wool brings out rich texture effects and unique textures. One of the designs in the series uses the classic rhombus pattern that UMA WANG presents every season, while the other expresses an acceptance and aesthetic attitude towards natural decline through a double layer of tattered fringes.

"I am very pleased to collaborate with Woolmark on this traceable Merino wool capsule series. The unparalleled qualities and plasticity of Merino wool are beyond words," Uma Wang said with a smile, "However, there is a highlight worth paying attention to in this series. Each product in the series has a traceable QR code for consumers to track the authenticity and provenance of the product, allowing customers to track the entire supply chain information from ranch to ready-to-wear, including the family of sheep, which farm it comes from, and so on. I hope everyone can sense the flavor from the beautiful Lal Lal ranch, as well as the warmth from Yendon and Victoria." In terms of craftsmanship, "She also made some special treatments to create a sense of dilapidation." These inspirations come from nature, such as the crumpled lake water, the mottled walls, and the dried bark of trees, "Uma added.

In Uma's eyes, how to wear comfortably is more important than the brand and value of fashion. Because the word "comfort" is truly rare, it means that designers need to spend more effort behind it. She always believes that wearability and functionality are the core intrinsic values of a product. However, it is in the details that "small surprises" are created. "I hope it is a piece of clothing that can move people. In fact, the relationship between people and clothing is very subtle, and clothing can give the wearer confidence or some internal perception. However, regardless of the level of impact, it can ultimately bring a sense of inner fullness and joy to the wearer."

Every season for clothing, Uma devotes great efforts to the research and development of fabrics, working with artisans to study and conduct experiments to observe the texture and shrinkage of the fabric surface as well as the washing effect. In the 2014 Autumn and Winter series, she used paper washable labels as fabrics. After seven passes of washing, sprinkling with coffee, and soaking with tea stains, you gain a natural trace that resembles the carving of time. The large flower pattern blooms on this trace, and the paper rubs and rustles.

On the label of each piece of clothing in the brand, you can see the sentence "Imperfect is Perfect". This brand aesthetic concept permeates every season. She defines UMA WANG as a "relatively niche" brand that is neither in the trend nor influenced by other popular elements. It has found its place in the all-encompassing fashion industry. "Not 100% identical patterns, pure handmade craftsmanship, and a relaxed and elegant feeling are the brand aesthetics she has established for UMA WANG."